Bridges across the Baltic Sea: Young Estonians in Finland discover the Coastal Swedish heritage of Vormsi and Noarootsi
Author: Krista Arro
What links the historical heritage of Estonians and the Coastal Swedes? This was precisely the question explored at the end of May when pupils studying Estonian in Helsinki, Vantaa and Espoo set off on a journey to the historic region of Aiboland – the traditional Coastal Swedish settlements of western Estonia. The trip was organised by Estonian language teachers Koidu Oja, Inna Pajos, Lee Laurimäe, Maret Männik and Krista Arro.
On the sunny morning of 26 May 2026, Estonian pupils from three major Finnish cities gathered in the departure hall of Helsinki’s West Harbour. Filled with anticipation, they boarded a Tallink ferry together to begin a journey across the Gulf of Finland. After a hearty breakfast at sea, a comfortable Venderloo coach was waiting in Tallinn to take them towards Rohuküla Harbour in Läänemaa, their destination being the mysterious island of Vormsi (Ormsö in Swedish).
The charm of Ormsö: mythology, wheel crosses and the talharpa
The harbour of Sviby on Vormsi welcomed the young visitors with peace, lush spring blossoms and vibrant greenery. They stayed in the scenic village of Rumpo in the southern part of the island, at the cosy Mäe Farm run by the Estonian-Swedish Streng family. After a delicious homemade lunch, a comprehensive coach tour began.
The island’s secrets were revealed by local guide Egon Erkmann, whose stories transported listeners back to a time when the island was inhabited predominantly by Swedes.
The fascinating history of Vormsi unfolded in the churchyard of St Olaf’s Church. Here stands the world’s largest collection of wheel crosses – more than 330 surviving limestone and sandstone crosses that tell a unique story about the beliefs and life cycle of the Coastal Swedes. Unlike ordinary crosses, wheel crosses symbolise the sun, life and eternity, reflecting ancient Scandinavian traditions.
An interesting fact: where does Vormsi get its name? According to legend, the island was named after the Icelandic Viking Orm (“snake” or “dragon”). The Swedish name Ormsö literally means “Snake Island”. Historically, Vormsi was almost entirely Swedish-speaking until the great exodus of 1944, when most Coastal Swedes fled to Sweden ahead of the Soviet occupation.
The afternoon was dedicated to music. Traditional costume maker Marju Tamm and Yngve Rosenblad introduced the pupils to the heritage of the Coastal Swedes, their traditional dress and one of the treasures of their culture – the talharpa, also known as the Hiiu kannel. This ancient bowed string instrument was once so popular on Vormsi that in the nineteenth century its lively dance music was considered sinful and instruments were even burned. Today, the talharpa is enjoying a revival. It was notably featured by the duo Puuluup at the Eurovision Song Contest in 2024.
The day concluded with a barbecue and an evening by the fireplace, where young people from Helsinki, Vantaa and Espoo got to know one another better, played card games and enjoyed the magnificent sunset from the farmhouse windows.
Noarootsi – a peninsula that keeps the Coastal Swedish spirit alive
On Wednesday 27 May, the group bade farewell to Vormsi and boarded the ferry Ormsö back to the mainland before heading to the Noarootsi (Nuckö) Peninsula. The region holds a special place in the hearts of Estonians and Swedes living in Sweden, as it remains one of the principal strongholds of Coastal Swedish culture in modern Estonia.
Upon arrival, the group visited Noarootsi Upper Secondary School, where they received a warm welcome from the school’s long-serving and highly respected headteacher, Laine Belovas. The school, located in the historic Pürksi Manor, is widely known for its distinctive focus on Swedish language and culture, which it has taught in depth for decades, helping to preserve the region’s historical identity.
The young Estonians from Finland had the opportunity to observe lessons, visit the boarding facilities, meet local pupils of their own age and enjoy lunch in the school’s welcoming dining hall.
Historical background: Did you know that Noarootsi was still an archipelago during the Middle Ages and the early modern period? As a result of post-glacial land uplift, the island became connected to the mainland by the nineteenth century, forming a peninsula. Despite this geographical change, its relative isolation and Swedish-speaking community endured, and Swedish remained the everyday language in Noarootsi villages right up until the Second World War.
An afternoon tour through the Coastal Swedish villages took the pupils even further back in time. The route included Dirhami Harbour and Rooslepa Chapel. A welcome ice cream break was enjoyed at Dirhami Local Shop, hosted by the friendly Slava and his colourful fifteen-year-old cat.
During the coach journey, teacher Koidu Oja introduced examples of Swedish loanwords in Estonian. Words such as säng (bed), tool (chair), taldrik (plate), püksid (trousers) and korv (basket) serve as living evidence of centuries of close interaction between the two peoples.
By the sunny afternoon of the second day, the group had arrived at Roosta Holiday Village. The pine-fringed cabins, the sound of the sea, a delicious dinner in the holiday village restaurant, outdoor games and a barbecue further strengthened friendships and brought the group even closer together.
Returning home richer in experience
Thursday 28 May, was devoted to the journey home. After breakfast at Roosta, the group travelled towards Tallinn. On the way, they stopped at Keila-Joa to admire the waterfall and take commemorative photographs.
During the coach journey, a quiz helped everyone recall what they had learned and experienced. Before boarding the ferry, the pupils had time for shopping at Tallinn’s Nautica Centre. In the afternoon, the Tallink ferry departed for Helsinki.
This trip was much more than a school excursion. For young Estonians from Finland, it provided an opportunity to experience the diversity of Estonia firsthand. Through the journey, the shared history of the Baltic Sea region, Coastal Swedish culture, unique string instruments and charming seaside villages will continue to live on in the memories and hearts of a new generation.
In their feedback, pupils highlighted how interesting it had been to visit new places and gain new knowledge. They praised the accommodation and the delicious Estonian food. Many were delighted to make new friends and take part in fun activities.
Marje and Gettlin commented: “The history of Vormsi was fascinating. We made new friends. We really enjoyed playing cards together.” Marie wrote: “I liked learning about the history of Vormsi and visiting different places the most. The accommodation was very comfortable, and listening to the kannel was amazing.”
The trip was supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Integration Foundation.
