A journalism student’s march through the Estonian diaspora
PROLOGUE.
Years of in the making, the idea came to fruition this spring when a intern from Estonia, a journalism student from Tallinn University, Kristelle Michelson, arrived at the editorial office of Vaba Eesti Sõna in New York in March.
For years, we in the editorial board had been contemplating how interesting and effective it could be for both sides for a young Estonian journalist to immerse themselves in Estonian culture abroad and how such ‘face-to-face’ cooperation could create more lasting connections and understanding between Estonia and the Estonian diaspora and help (re-)integrate our communities that have been drifting apart for years.
We are very grateful to Tallinn University, specifically Külli-Riin Tigasson, and to the Department for the Diaspora at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (especially Kadri Linnas) for their good cooperation and support in implementing our project!
Today we can say that the experiment succeeded, we were very satisfied with our intern and she was a great help in diversifying the content of the newspaper.
We are also happy to inform you that the project is continuing and a new competition to find an intern for next spring is already underway at Tallinn University.
Now you can read Kristelle Michelson herself give an account of her experience.
Kärt Ulman
Editor of of Vaba Eesti Sõna
Vaba Eesti Sõna (Free Estonian Word) is an Estonian expatriate weekly newspaper published in New York City, United States established in 1949.
Kristelle Michelson, a student at Tallinn University, writes about her internship in the United States with the Estonian newspaper Vaba Eesti Sõna.
I step off the plane and take a deep breath. All I can think about is whether I am finally here, and I can hear familiar American chit-chat around me. The idea that was sown a year ago to complete my university internship on the other side of the pond has finally borne fruit!
I am Kristelle, a 23-year-old journalism student from Tallinn University. In the spring of 2024, I heard for the first time about the opportunity to do a professional internship abroad in the United States of America. I received a personal offer because I had been to the USA before, working as a door-to-door bookseller.
The internship itself was a first-time project, so I, as the first intern, would be a so-called guinea pig. I liked the idea of being the first to experience something like this – distinguished in a way – and I was ready to grab it.
Obviously, I already knew that there were Estonian communities abroad. However, I never thought about why or how they got there. So I wanted to see how local communities work, whether they really communicate on the other side of the pond in Estonian. The idea of young people who understand Estonian culture and language, having spent their whole lives in the States, seemed particularly strange.
I couldn’t imagine what this experience would be like. Hearing about the location of the Estonian House in New York – in central Manhattan, on the same street as the Empire State Building – the internship ahead seemed like a real big American dream. The Americans had made a very warm impression on me during my earlier summer work there, so there was no fear or apprehension.
A historical prelude
Before the trip, I was able to work with the editorial office of Vaba Eesti Sõna and learn about the local community. I met once a week with supervisor Kärt Ulman to discuss topics for various stories, get as accurate a preview as possible of the life on the ground. During the meetings, a clear idea of what to expect took shape. I was also in close contact with Leelo Linask, who helped to finalise the plan. While usually I tend to work on my own, I’m very grateful for the support and preparation.
In fact, the existence of the Vaba Eesti Sõna was a big surprise at first, I did not imagine that Estonian-language media had existed in America for such a long time. During my preparation, I understood the importance of the existence of community newspapers – it is like a lifeline for Estonian culture and the Estonian language. The paper itself is large enough to cover a wide range of topics for all readers.
I noticed that there are a lot of local stories in the paper, but since America is so big, you have to rely on local correspondents. Thus, the people are one of the main authors, maintaining Estonian cultural identity in their own way! The pace of putting an issue together is relaxed because it is published every other week. It doesn’t seem to be have a specific format but I think it is a sign of freedom, character and co-creation.
Time to conquer the United States!
17 March arrived and it was time for the American adventure to begin. I spent my first few days in New York. I have always loved cities, skyscrapers and fast-paced lifestyles. When I told my mother about this on the phone, she said she’d be dizzy.
The Estonian House was awe-inspiring – it is such a dignified house true to its era. It did warm my heart to see a blue-black-and-white flag fly in front of the house in the middle of a big city. The offices of Vaba Eesti Sõna looked exactly as I imagined.
While browsing through the archive folders of old issues, I was also proud to be able to touch and read this history. There are not many paper copies of VES left, the very first newspapers from 1949 are already crumbling. In fact, the Estonian language has not changed much and it was interesting to read and look for topics from the past.
I understood the essence of the use of Estonian in the choir’s rehearsal – they actually do sing in Estonian! Even if everyone is not Estonian by nationality, they learn the language to sing and dance folk dances. Many expat Estonians go to great lengths, sometimes driving for hours for choir practice, perpetuating the culture this way. When we heard the trill of Estonian words, I idea immediately thought that as a nation we should value our language a whole lot more.
The quiet charm of Lakewood
It soon became clear that Estonian food also keeps the Estonian spirit alive. I saw both bread imported from Estonia with English labels as well as sprat sandwiches. I got my biggest cultural shock eating dumpling soup at the Lakewood Estonian House.
I also visited an Estonian school in Lakewood for the first time. I was able to play old Estonian games, sing with the children and see how Estonian is taught. It is admirable to see the work of the leaders of Estonian schools! In addition, everyone got along well with each other, it was like a big family where it didn't matter who was whose child.
Local Estonians also listen to a surprisingly large amount of Estonian-language radio; sometimes I didn’t even realize that I was in the US. I also heard exciting stories about Estonians in Lakewood. You can see how public figures are just people here, they don’t create this formal barrier between themselves and the people.
Everyone is also interested in the past and mindset of ‘new faces’ – where you come from in Estonia, what you do, what do you think of us. Everyone is very open and talkative; if another Estonian is sitting opposite you, they would like to know your whole life story right away.
In the Lakewood archives, I got an in-depth look at the historical side. In America, it’s a big deal when you work in archives and are responsible for the preservation of culture. I felt at home in Lakewood, and they didn’t want to let me go. Helica DeShaw and Raivo Reinup do a tremendous amount of work, successfully maintaining the Lakewood Estonian House.
A step into politics in a big city
I travelled on the Amtrak high-speed train for the first time. I went to Washington DC where the Estonian community met with Estonian Foreign Minister Margus Tsahkna. However, just like in films, the train was stopped, someone had collapsed and we waited for an ambulance. I was a little late, but all is well that ends well. The foreign minister himself seemed very easy-going and sincere. When a woman was very worried about what was going to happen in Estonia, Tsahkna hugged her and told her not to worry. I also got to see the sights of Washington and saw the White House from a distance.
One of the most eye-opening experiences was participating in Baltic Advocacy Days. Before I went Washington, JBANC Chairman Karl Altau briefed me on the background of JBANC, during the Baltic Advocacy Days I was supervised by the leaders of JBANC youth event, mainly Hindrek Pärg. It is unbelievable that ordinary people can (by prior appointment) march into the senator’s office and communicate directly and immediately with their representatives and remind them of what is really happening in the world.
I also visited a Signing Store of Starbucks in Washington, where only sign language is used and it is the only one of its kind in America. It was a bit confusing when, wanting to grab lunch from a familiar café chain during a quick a coffee break, there was only silence in a crowded room.
I travelled back to New York, where the Estonian Cultural Days had begun. Thus, the Estonian House was filled with traditions: Kihnu bread was baked, Estonian humour was discussed and Seto dances were learned. There were also more young people. We talked about how it seems that people our age abroad are once again more interested in Estonian culture and want to maintain it.
Getting to know university life
My last explorations took me to New Haven and Boston. I first attended a lecture by Susan Campbell at the University of New Haven. How many people have the opportunity to speak in a class where the lecturer is a Pulitzer Prize winner? I gave an overview of Estonian journalism, principles and university life. I also took part in Bradley Woodworth’s lecture on Baltic history and was able to read the anthem to Americans in Estonian.
It was amazing to me how close the faculty is to the students and how freely they communicate with each other. The cafeteria was just like in a movie. Bradley also gave me a tour of Yale University (in Estonian, by the way!) and introduced me to his field of study, Baltic Studies.
In Boston, it was possible to visit Berklee College of Music and interview the young talented musician Ingmar Kivilood. I also saw the Boston Estonian School, which was surprisingly modern – the children sang songs by nublu and Karl-Erik Taukar. Adults also have the opportunity to learn Estonian there.
I spent the last few days of my internship in New York. It was even possible to go to Broadway to see a production of Gypsy. I quietly said goodbye to skyscrapers, crowds hurrying in all directions, and the blue-black-and-white flag in the middle of the big city.
The American Estonian community left a warm feeling in my heart and I am grateful to everyone I crossed paths with. Everyone sticks together to preserve our language and culture, supports each other and wants to pass it on to younger generations. I would like to extend special thanks to my welcoming hosts Mairo Notton, Ines Horton, Marju Rink-Abel, Eve Saar, Helica DeShaw and Anneli Hurt. Infinite hospitality, curiosity, Estonian flavours and the ‘I-will-drive-for-hours-for-choir-practice’ attitude – these the things I remember most vividly and I hope that my journalistic trail brings me back soon.
About me
I’m from Tartu, but I chose Tallinn as my university town. I spent most of my life in a dance hall and surrounded by music – I studied in a music class in elementary school and even got into an orchestra to play tuba. Thus, song festivals and the charm and beauty of the Estonian language have always been dear to my heart. This is why I decided to study journalism.
Kristelle Michelson
